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Region: France - Burgundy
Grapes: Gamay, Pinot Noir
Alcohol: 12.5%
Notes on the Wine
The nose is beautiful, full of mouthwatering cranberry, black raspberry, Morello cherry, and purple plum fruit, followed by rose petals, white pepper, and a touch of damp earth. The palate is medium-bodied and juicy, trending towards the darker, more Gamay-like end of the spectrum with blueberries and plums coming to the fore. Gamay’s purple-fruited roundness fills out Pinot’s filigreed acidity, and there’s just enough tannin here for it to be served alongside some meat.
Notes on the Producer
Bourgogne Passetoutgrain is a bit of a frustrating appellation, in that it totally erases village and vineyard distinctions. It’s always a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay, but where the fruit comes from can’t actually be conveyed on the label. It doesn’t matter if the vines are located in the lowliest Bourgogne-designated vineyard or in a top village; if it’s a blend of Gamay and Pinot, it’s classified Bourgogne Passetoutgrain. Georges Lignier’s bottling is ⅔ Pinot Noir and ⅓ Gamay, coming exclusively from old vines located in prime Morey-Saint-Denis territory. The village’s famed savory bass notes and firmer structure are apparent here, commingling with a joyfully pure fruit character and refreshing structure.
While Georges’ and Hubert’s estates are clearly distinct operations, they do share ownership of some of the most coveted plots in Morey-Saint-Denis (and thus in all of Burgundy). Hubert is known for a structured and burly style. But the Georges Lignier domaine, now headed by Georges’ nephew Benoit Stehly, offers simply one of the most seductive and elegant lineups you’ll see in the village. Benoit prizes aromatic complexity and concentration, a predilection that lends itself especially well to his Bourgogne Passetoutgrain bottling. The two varieties are fermented separately with partial whole clusters. The wines are blended post-malolactic conversion and aged entirely in steel, preserving the wine’s incredible crunchy freshness.
